Chill Out

Part of the process of home brewing beer is to take the wort (the hot, sweet liquid created in the mash tun) and to cool it to a temperature suitable for pitching the yeast. If the wort is too hot, it kills the yeast. Conversely, if it’s too cold the yeast will hibernate and not ferment the beer.

There are all kinds of different methods around to chill wort, the most common being an immersion chiller. These are a long length of copper pipe twisted into a big coil which sits in the wort and has cold water pumped through it. The heat exchange occurs as the water absorbs the heat and the wort cools. However, immersion chillers aren’t cheap, you’d be looking at about £60 for a low-end one. I could make one myself from 10 metres of 10mm soft copper, but it’s still quite an outlay.

So I began to look for alternatives.

And found a good one.

Plastic-Jerry-Can-stackable-natural

The ‘no-chill’ method is talked about quite a lot on brewing forums, and has the massive advantage of being cheap, so I found out as much as I can about it. It’s called no-chill because you don’t actively chill the wort, it’s left to cool by itself overnight in an appropriate container. The best option is to get hold of a plastic storage cube/jerry can, which is what I’ve done.

Once the cube is sanitised and sterile the wort is poured in. The sides of the cube are squeezed (with oven gloves, the wort is still at around 100 degrees centigrade) to expel as much air as possible and the lid screwed on. This nice, sterile environment means the wort can chill at its own pace, and prevents natural yeasts and other bugs from growing on the sugary liquid. The next day (or even up to a week later) I can just slowly bring it up to fermentation temperature and pitch my yeast.

Some people worry that without rapid chilling it’s impossible to get the cold crash (where proteins and other sediment groups together and sinks, helping to clear the liquid), but apparently no-chill can actually produce clearer brews! I’m not sure why, but it sounds promising.

Importantly for me, no-chill has two massive advantages. Firstly, I’m not pushed for time. I don’t have to get the whole brew done in one day, which is handy with an eight-month-old knocking around the house. Secondly, it’s really, really cheap! My cube cost £8 delivered. That’s a 25 litre cube made of certified food-grade plastic (very important). I look forward to getting the first brew on and in it.

Curtains for Windows?

No, I’ve not taken up drapery along with everything else, this is about computers again (woo, yay, etc.).

I’ve mentioned previously that I’ve been using Linux as my OS of choice lately, and it’s still the case. I’ve only booted my laptop into Windows 8 once in the last few months, and that was to try and get a SilverLight plugin working which didn’t seem to like the MonoLight interpretation in Mint. The only other thing I’m still hanging on to a windows install for is certain games, ones I’m not really ready to let go of.

However, that reason is getting less and less significant with each passing week, mainly down to the awesome work Valve are doing with Steam on Linux. It’s gone from having a few indie titles and Team Fortress 2, to having a much bigger, much better selection. The two main additions for me in the last couple of weeks have been Portal and Half-Life 2. Both are still marked as being in Beta, but both are very, very playable with only a few small glitches so far.

Portal, if you haven’t played it, is one you really ought to. The clever portal mechanic is fun to use through the puzzle section of the game, working your way through level and level of figuring out how to get to the exit, but it’s when you get to the last stage that it really takes off. I won’t give away too much about cake and what happens later in the game, but it’s still one of the most clever and well-made games I’ve played in the last ten years.

Half-Life 2 though, even now, years after it was released, is still amazing. The orginal Half-Life still holds a special place for me as the best single-player FPS ever, but there’s no denying HL2 is much more polished and more involved. The Linux implementation is just as I remember it, and the advantage of it being a few years old now means that it runs very happily on the Core i3 with Intel HD3000 graphics in my cheapo laptop. I’ve only come up against one bug so far (LDR map versions not present on some levels, starting at Black Mesa East), but it’s well-documented, there’s a fix available until Valve patch it, and let’s not forget it is still in Beta.

As it stands right now, the only game I’d have to load Windows for is Battlefield 3 (and soon 4). As someone who’s been playing games on a PC under Windows for the last eighteen years, that’s quite a statement to make. Hopefully it’s just a precursor for the future as more and more developers and publishers not necessarily spurn Windows, but at least include Linux as an option. The Steam Box will no doubt see Valve continue to throw more weight at it, and hopefully encourage others to do the same, and so far the alleged fragmentation of Linux as a platform and community really doesn’t seem to be causing too many problems.

Microsoft are apparently about to do a massive U-turn with the release of ‘Blue’ (or Windows 8.1 as it’s expected to be called) by putting in an option to boot to desktop, putting the Start button back, and hopefully adding the Aero-style window decorations too. That would certainly make the choice to ditch Windows altogether a harder one, because with 8 as it is now I’m really not too adverse to getting rid of it.

Consider this: this weekend I was playing HL2 in Linux (native) on my 42″ via HDMI, and haven’t had to install a single driver myself yet. To me this makes Linux (well, certainly Mint) the easiest PC setup for games I’ve ever had. I honestly didn’t think I’d ever find myself saying that.

Tap close-up

Mash Tun Update – First Test – Updated!

Over the weekend I did the first proper test of the newly completed mash tun.

I wanted to see how well it held temperature, so filled it to about 10 litres with water from the hot tap (which I know will really only reach around 40 degrees C), put the lid and cover on, and left it alone.

About an hour later I went back to check it, and using the very scientific method of sticking my finger in the water, could tell that the temperature hadn’t dropped much at all, which I took to be a success. In fact, another hour-and-a-half later I emptied it and tested the tap at the same time, and it was still hot.

So not a terribly scientific test, but one I think was successful. It held a good temperature, which will only get better once the grain is in there acting as insulation too, and I had no leaks, not even a drip. I’ve now got a digital thermometer so I can do the test again and actually track the temperature as I go. I’m very pleased, and looking forward to getting the boiler even more now.

Update:

Armed with my new thermometer, I conducted another test last night. I wasn’t going for a specific temperature, but wanted to get it somewhere around what I need for mashing, just to see how it does. By the time I’d added around ten litres of water from the hot tap and boiling kettle, I had a starting temperature in the tun of 58 degrees. On went the lid, and an hour went on the timer.

A year ago I’d have spent the next hour twiddling my thumbs and resisting the urge to take a reading every few minutes, but having a six month-old meant the next hour was occupied with baths, washing bottles and having a last bit of play before he went to sleep.

After an hour I took the lid and cap off and put the probe in with a due sense of worry. What if it didn’t work? What if I’d wasted all that time and money (not that it cost a lot really) on something useless? I needn’t have worried. An hour later the temperature had dropped a paltry four degrees! Bearing in mind that I was just using water and didn’t have a grain bed to help hold the heat, I think that means I officially have something that I can make beer with!

I guess I’d better start reading more about which sparging technique I want to use.

Mash Tun Completed!

Last night I grabbed an hour while RAR was asleep and managed to finish the mash tun build.

The first part was relatively easy; fitting the ball valve tap. Obviously I don’t want the wort just pouring out of the bottom of the tun, so I needed a way to keep it all in and control what comes out, and how fast it does. This is important for things like controlling first runnings to pour back through the grain bed. Using the same compression fittings I used to plumb the pipe through, I attached the 15mm ball valve tap I bought from B&Q. I do have a 15mm female compression elbow to fit at some point, to redirect the flow downwards, but at the moment when it’s fastened tight it points to the right – not ideal.

15mm ball valve tap

Ball valve tap attached with compression fittings.

After I finished insulating the body before, all I had to do was make sure the rest of it was properly insulated, so that when I start mashing grain it holds temperature as best it can. The first, easy part was adding more of the insulating wrap I’d used for the rest of the build to the lid.

insulated mash tun lid

It’s not the prettiest, but it’ll do the job.

On the original Instructable that I’ve been following for the most part, the author found that he had a few inches of the internal fermenting bin sticking out of the top once it was put inside the main tun. That meant he was able to wrap more insulation around that exposed area to minimise any heat loss, so I thought I’d do the same thing. Except there was a problem…

internal mash tun bin overhang

Very shallow overhang when the internal bin is in place.

As you can see from the photo above, when my mash tun is assembled, there’s very little overhang exposed. This is both good and bad at the same time. Good in the sense that it means heat loss is lower, but bad because it gives me much less to work with to insulate it. By the time I wrap insulation around it, there’s almost no room left to attach the tape. The other problem is that I wanted to keep the handle attached to make it easier to remove the grain and clean it afterwards.

After a quick think (aided by a bottle of London Pride) I came up with a plan for a basic thermal cap. Think of it as a woolly hat for my brew. It’s a bit rough-and-ready, but it’s a good size and fit, and can be put on without needing to remove the handle.

mash tun cap

Shiny! My mash tun’s warm hat.

So there we go, it’s finished! I’ve done a couple of quick tests for leaks, which have all been good so far (no drips anywhere!), and once I get a decent thermometer I’ll do some tests for heat retention, but all being well, I’ve finished.

Completed mash tun

Completed mash tun

 

Completed mash tun

…and another picture of the completed tun.

It’s taken a couple of weeks to do what I could have done in a day or two if I didn’t have a little boy invading every corner of my life, but to be honest, I quite like the slow build. There’s no rush after all, and I don’t even have a boiler yet. The longer I wait, the more time I have to decide what I’m going to brew, and how to do it. That said, I can’t wait to taste the first pint.

ready player one - ernest cline

Ready Player One

A bit of a break from the norm for me here, but I’ve got to write about Ready Player One, a novel by Ernest Cline that I’d have to say is essential reading for anyone even remotely interested in the the films, music and video games of the 80s.

If you’re a fan of the 80s and Video Games in particular, it’s your Geek Nirvana of a book, the entire thing is packed cover-to-cover with Pop Culture references. On top of that, it’s a great read too.

The story is set in the near-future, where every man and his dog spends most of their waking day connected to The Oasis, a massive virtual reality simulation/game which has pretty much taken over the world. Its creator, an 80s fan named Halliday, dies and leaves one last game, a search for the Easter Egg. Halliday releases a video when he dies which is chock-full of references to games, TV, films and music from the 80s, challenging everyone using the Oasis to search for his hidden Easter Egg. The first one to do so, inherits the entire thing.

Cue individuals, clans and corporations devoting their whole lives to it, some aiming to get it no matter what the cost. The rest of book is played out through video game challenges, movie and game references, music and just about anything to send someone of my age careering straight into Nostalgia City. I’m not going to give away any more of the plot than that, I want other people to discover it as they go, just as I did.

If you’re into video games in particular, you have to read it, it’s as simple as that. If you enjoy treasure-hunts, adventure, and the 80s, the same is true. It’s absolutely brilliant and I urge anyone to give it a go. As I have very little time to actually read anything these days, I bought it as an audiobook from Audible and listened to it during my work commutes and at lunch, and the narration by Geek favourite Wil Wheaton just adds to the atmosphere.

More Mash Tun Progress

I’ve managed to make some more progress on the mash tun. Over the past couple of nights I’ve grabbed half an hour when everyone else has gone to bed and started to insulate it.

My insulation of choice is aluminium-lined thermal wrap insulation, the sort of thing you can buy a big roll of from DIY shops to wrap up boilers and such. It’s not the worst job in the world, but it’s not the easiest either. Let’s just say if I were to give one as a present now, I’d definitely be tying a ribbon around it rather than wrapping it.

After a lot of frustration and furious cutting and sticking, I’ve now got it to the stage where I’d be happy to use it, although I think I’ll be adding one more layer just to make sure. The whole thing is taped up with overlapping pieces of duct tape which should mean it keeps a nice waterproof seal and stops yucky, sticky wort getting between the insulation and the bin.

Insulated mash tun

Mast tun all wrapped up warm, one more layer to go on. the tap needs tidying-up too.

Once the last layer goes on I’m going to fit the tap and fill it with water to test for leaks again, and then I’ll half-fill it with hot water and do a test to see how well it holds temperature.

I’m getting there slowly.

Mash Tun Progress

I managed to get some work done on the mash tun over the weekend. My first task was to get the tank connector fitted, get the siphon pipe installed, and to make sure it’s all watertight.

The connector came with a nice washer so I was able to use the inside of that as a template for the hole I had to cut, which needed to be the diameter of the thread on it. I had a spade bit for my drill which was almost the right size and made short work of cutting a nice neat hole in the bottom of my fermenter. The hole was a couple of mm too narrow so I set to work with a small file and a wood drill bit to gouge and smooth out the rest of it. It wasn’t super-neat, but it did the job.

mash tun hole cut

My not-so-neat hole in the bottom of the mash tun.

I left it a little small so it would have a good, tight fit.

Once the connector was in I left it in loose to measure up for pipe. Some people put a 90-degree elbow straight down on the back of the connector, but I’m following the advice in the Instructable this build is based on which says to use a length of pipe to help act as support for the inner drum once it’s full of water and grain. I measured the pipe up and used the natty little pipe-cutter to cut it to length.

Tank connector with pipe

Outside of the tank connector with pipe fitted. I’ve actually cut another 3/4″ off of this since.

Once I was happy with the fit and the length of the pipe there was only a couple of things left to do for this stage of the build. First up, adding the 90-degree elbow to the end of the pipe that’s inside the tun. This is really only there to give a little extra depth to the siphon action. Without it, the siphon would stop once the level inside reached the top of the pipe. With the elbow added it should continue siphoning until the level reaches the bottom of the tun.

With that added, the last thing was to tighten everything up. The fittings I used are compression ones which have a small brass O-ring (called an olive) inside the nuts. Once they’re tightened really well with a spanner or wrench, the olive presses around the pipe and gives a watertight seal. I tightened the nut on the elbow, the one on the back of the tank connector, and finally the two for the connector itself.

mash tun internal with siphon pipe

The inside of the tun with the compression elbow attached.

I’ve not added the ball valve for the tap on the outside yet, because the next job is insulating it all, and the less bits I’ve got sticking out, the better.

So far, so good!

 

Brass Band

Progress on my brewery has slowed, but only due to a couple of grams of brass.

As mentioned in my previous update, inside the tank connector which will link my siphon pipe to the tap on the mash tun, there’s a small collar (or band, for fans of punning titles) of brass. Probably only half a millimeter or so all the way around, but enough to stop the copper pipe going all the way through.

Consulting the mighty internet, it seems I wasn’t the only person to come up against this snag, and by far the most common fix was ‘file it’.

I’ve got a small set of metal files so got to work on it, but it turns out that they will barely touch brass. After half an hour of furious rubbing (steady!) I’d barely taken anything off. Balls.

Lucky for me my brother has a nice powerful dremel with a grinding bit! A bit of grinding, swearing, hammering, WD40, and a bit more grinding – success! I now have a tank connector which a 15mm copper pipe will go through nicely.

Next is to just create the hole for it in the mash tun, cut the pipe to length, and then use my compression fittings to make it all watertight. More updates as and when that happens!

Adventures In Brewing

I’ve been homebrewing on-and-off for years now, and had pretty good results. I’ve had a break of a year or so now since I last brewed, and that was the same as every other one I’ve done, a “can and a kilo” kit. These are basically a big tin can of malt extract, and usually a kilo of sugar/spraymalt, hence the name. They make a nice brew and it’s very satisfying (not to mention cheap!), but it’s always felt a bit removed to me. Ok, I’m making beer, but all I’m doing is diluting the treacle from the tin, adding some yeast and some sugar to feed that yeast. So now, I’ve decided to take step of moving to All Grain brewing!

All Grain (AG) is brewing the way all breweries have done for centuries; taking the grain (malted barley usually), water, hops and yeast to create lovely beer. However, it’s a bit of an art with some science behind it, and it requires quite a bit of equipment, but apparently the results are worth it, so I’m going to give it a go. Partially because I want to have control over the flavours and aromas, but mostly because I’ve got it in my head now.

So, equipment then. As I mentioned, AG needs a fair bit of equipment compared to kit brewing. Have a look at the comparison below. Note that this is just the necessary bits and pieces, you’ll probably end up using quite a few extras.

Kit AG
Fermenting bin Mash Tun
Tin of extract Hot Liquor Tank (HLT)
Sugar Boiler
Yeast Cooler
Fermenting bin
Thermometer
Hydrometer
Grain (malted barley, wheat etc.)
Yeast
Hops (for flavour, bittering and aroma)

At least twice as much stuff. While you can do a kit in one bin, most AG brewers use a three vessel set-up; HLT, Mash Tun, Boiler. That’s before it even gets as far as the fermenting bin.

All of this kit can cost a lot, I’ve seen kits online for about £300, but I want to do it cheaper if I can, and in the spirit of ‘doing it all from scratch’ I’m going to make what I need wherever possible.

Starting with the mash tun.

I’m simplifying here, but bear with me. The mash tun is where the magic happens. It’s where water and malted barley turn into the sweet pre-beer known as wort (said ‘wert’). The grain goes into a container where hot water (and the temperature has to be just right) is added. The resultant soup (mash) sits for about an hour, converting the starch into sugars, before the wort is drained off. To then to get the rest of the sugars out we ‘sparge’, which is to add the bulk of the water at a higher temperature in order to stop the process. Obviously what we want here is a clear liquid, so somehow we need to make sure the milled barley doesn’t come out too.

But how?

There are a lot of different solutions, some involving tubing in the bottom of the tun, some using fine mesh bags, and some using false bottoms. I’m going with the latter, and doing a build based on this instructable.

I went off to the likes of Wilkinsons, B&Q and Screwfix to gather all the parts I needed.

mash tun equipment

Two fermenting bins, 15mm copper pipe, tank connector, 15mm compression elbow, 15mm female elbow, ball valve tap, food grade 12.5mm plastic pipe, duct tape, PTFE tape

From there I started putting things together. Unfortunately I immediately ran into a snag – quite a big one. The tank connector which fits in the hole of the bin I’ll be making, isn’t 15mm (the diameter of the copper pipe I’m using) all the way through. Halfway through it changes diameter, which means I can’t plumb the pipe through as I need to. I’m going to get a round file to fix it, as that seems to be the most popular way online, judging by the posts of people who’ve run into exactly this problem before.

Undeterred, I’ve carried on and got at least something done. The inner of the two bins, where the grain will sit, needs lots of small holes drilled in the bottom to let the liquid drain through (slowly), but to keep the grain seperate. I followed the instructable here, and while I didn’t go to the bother of marking them all out first, I ploughed on with a 2mm bit in my drill and got to work.

drilled fermenter

The bottom of one of the fermenters, after drilling

mash tun drilled

A view of the inside, see all the lovely holes.

I deliberately stopped before I went too far, just to keep some integrity in the base (I have no idea how much it’ll all weigh) and to make sure the wort and sparge water doesn’t drain through too quickly. If it goes too slowly, I can always drill some more, but I can’t really go filling holes in.

So there we go, a brief introduction to what I’m up to, and what’s involved. I’ll update again once I get hold of that round file and finally sort out the tap plumbing.

Sinclair ZX Spectrum 48K

Twenty-Five Games for my Son

This is something I’m shamelessly ripping off, based on something I saw on YouTube.

Randy Yasenchak of ElderGeek.com had the really nice idea of building a list of games for his young son to play as he grows up, and I was totally smitten with it, so I’ve decided to do the same thing myself, for my son.

Games are a massive part of my life, they have been for as long as I’ve had a computer, which must be about 1984 (give or take a year or so). It started with a Sinclair Spectrum 48K and kept going from there.

Along the way there have been some games which are indelibly etched on my memory for one reason or another. They’re not necessarily the greatest games in the world, nor the most memorable for most people I expect, but they’re important to me and tend to flood me with memories. These are the games I want RAR to play when he’s old enough to, just so he has an idea of what it was that has kept me playing to this day, almost thirty years later.

I told my wife about the idea and her initial reaction (after giving me a ‘really?!?’ expression) was ‘Twenty-five?! That many?’ I guess it seemed like a lot to her, but quite honestly I wondering how I’m meant to whittle it down to that few.

So now my task is to build a list of the twenty-five games which define my video game history. No mean feat! Off the top of my head as I sit here writing this, I’m looking at the following systems to potentially pick from: ZX Spectrum 48/128K, Sega Master System, Sega Megadrive, NES (although to be fair I didn’t pick one up until I was nearly thirty), SNES, PC, Amiga, Gameboy, Coin-op, Playstation, PS2, PS3, Xbox, Gamecube, N64, Xbox 360, Nintendo DS. (I’m probably missing some.)

Narrowing down this list is going to take some real thinking, but I’m looking forward to it, for nostalgia’s sake if nothing else. I’m debating making myself play right through each one again too.

So, does anything spring to mind for you? What would be immediate picks for you?